Ouagadougou

Hi Everyone,

Seemingly a lot of time has passed since the last update, somewhere in the region of 10 days. Unfortunately, I'm unable to add pics from where I am, however, I will outline what we've been up to...

We left Bamako and headed to Djenné, home of the largest mud mosque in the world and certified UNESCO world heritage site. It's a place that constantly amazes me, so much mud, so well used! They're currently in the process of renovating the mosque - this is something they do every year by adding more mud to the outside walls, however, this year they have embarked on a new programme which should mean that the renovation needs only happen every 3 years, or every 10, we forget! Whatever, it is still a spectacular site, the people are lovely and the view from the top of the hotel where we camped is unforgettable.

From Djenné we drove back down to the river (all of 5 mins) and climbed aboard a luxury pirogue (complete with roof, motor and stove) and set off up the river towards Mopti. This was an overnight trip that involved a couple of stops in local riverside villages along the way, complete with large numbers of hugely over excited children, all spewing a mixture of bad French and local dialect, the result of which was difficult to comprehend. Luckily it's not hard to realise that sweets and empty water bottles are the order of the day, and so there were lots of smiling faces wherever we went, especially content once their photos had been taken and shown to them countless times!

Arriving in Mopti we settled down for lunch in a restaurant just removed from the busy port and rather fittingly ate some fish. From here it was a short trip to Sevaré, via a supermarket of sorts to restock our supplies and on to a campsite called Via Via. Another good roof to pitch tents and a cheap bar meant many happy faces. Even happier once they realised that their evenings' transport to the local bar and music venue consisted of two donkey carts. Not that the locals didn't lap that up as well, 10 Europeans/Americans and Australians on the back of 2 donkey carts, a classic stunt! A good night out with great local music followed by several midnight snacks of bread and omelette before heading to bed at what feels like a very late 2am over here.

The following morning was a fairly relaxed affair, with all we needed to do to drive to Bandiagara, the gateway to the Dogon Country. Most were tired and slept the miles away in the back of the truck, but those that weren't watched the awesome scenery unfold before us, as African village gives way to almost moonscape rock formations. Very cool indeed, and more to follow over the next few days.

I saw little of Bandiagara, other than our hotel/campite, as we were only there for Sunday evening before leaving early on Monday for our 3 day hike in Dogon Country. Our guide, Mamadu, met us at the hotel and we left together for what was to become an unforgettable 3 days.

Arriving in Dogon Country is like arriving in no other place. It is truly unique, and although more touristy than my last visit, still sublime. The moonscape makes way for a huge escarpment opening out onto a valley, in the middle of which lies spread about Dogon villages. Some lie atop the escarpment, some cling to the rock face at the bottom and others lie on the flat fground at the bottom of the valley, however, all are watched over by countless small caves bored into the cliffs of the escarpment high above everything else - these are the houses of the ancient Tellem, a pygmy people that lived there long ago. Nobody really knows when they left or why, and how they lived so high up in the cliffs above, however, the spectacle of seeing their houses and the Dogon villages that lie alongside (although underneath) is unbelievable. On the second day we had a ceremonial dance from one of the Dogon villages which was a vision of masks and purple skirts, sleeves and anklets. All the dancers were male and the result was fantastic. Afterwards we learnt all about the different masks (there were 31 separate dancers, mostly all in different masks) and the stories behind them were intriguing.

A 9km walk after the dance and we found our sleeping place for the night, ate and bedded down, exhilarated and elated but tired. After all, tomorrow we would be climbing back up the tall escarpment.

Awaking early due to countless donkeys, chickens and pigs, not forgetting children, birds and the rhythmic sound of pounding millet, we dressed and assembled for a breakfast of tea, coffee, doughnuts and bread. Afterwards, a short walk towards the next village along before turning a sharp right towards the cliff face and beginning the steep ascent back to what feels like the rest of Mali, this current land being so different.

It was not as difficult as I remember and we were back up at the top some 20 minutes later, most heaving for some air and gulping water, but others showing far more capability (the guides!). Back on what can be described as terra firma, we made the slow amble towards our final Dogon village, where we had a much needed soda (fizzy drink) and awaited Matt (our driver) and lunch.

Matt arrived in time for lunch, for which he was immensely grateful and we then set off back for Bandiagara. Another night there passed in similar fashion to the last one there, a few beers, some football on the TV and then bed. The next day we made for the Mali-Burkina Faso border and crossed with much simplicity into the next country on our journey. Just past the border we rough camped. Low on supplies but with true inspiration, we feasted on egg fried rice and baked beans and afterwards settled down to watch a cracking DVD of Michael McIntyre. Pure comedy genius. The rough camp was the quietest we had encountered so far and seemed removed from most other life, save for the (very) occasional motorbike that went past, and one very random large truck at about four in the morning.

The night was cold, but we had made a fire so the first thing Matt did was to relight it, allowing everyone to escape the chill. Th kettle was boiled and warm drinks were passed round before porridge was served and suddenly the sun was up and jumpers were being removed once more. A little further down the road we had to purchase the travel documents for the vehicle, followed by a brief meeting with the gendarmerie. Nothing special and all very normal, no problems and we were on our way, officially in our penultimate country. At about 11am, all feeling a bit hungry, we stopped in Yaka for some grilled guinea fowl. I think this town might remain etched on my memory for this sole reason - by far the best I've ever had and worth a journey from wherever you are now!

Back in the car and onto Ouagadougou, some 200km later. Not much of note on that stretch of road, save various motorcyclists carrying either 40 goats or 200 chickens. Trés amusant!

We're now in Ouaga, setting up camp in a swish hotel with a swimming pool and bar, good restaurant and air con. Unfortunately we'll be camping outside, which they let us do for free if we show "some good will" towards their bar. I don't think that'll be tricky.

All the best to all and sundry, we're off to Victoria's birthplace tomorrow, Bobo-Dioulasso, which is surely worth a toast.

Tom.